Organised tours in Brazil often include Rio de Janeiro and Salvador da Bahia. São Paulo, Brasília and Belo Horizonte are less known travel destinations, unfortunately so. What makes all these cities worth a visit?
Similarities and differences between Brazil's 5 largest cities
Salvador da Bahia was Brazil's first capital; Rio de Janeiro its second. Both are steeped in colonial history, and Salvador da Bahia has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. Brasília became Brazil's third capital in the 1950s. Brasília and Belo Horizonte were both built in the 20th century and gained fame for, among other things, Oscar Niemeyer's challenging architecture and Burle Marx's modern views of landscape architecture.
Among the five, São Paulo stands out. It is by far the largest Brazilian city and a true metropolis which is manifest in, among other things, a varied ethnic population reflected in a diversity of art, restaurants, entertainment and nightlife.
1. Stroll around Salvador da Bahia – aracajé food, coastline and UNESCO site
International cruises that call at Brazil most likely stop in Salvador da Bahia. The old quarter of Pelourinho is arguably the city's largest tourist attraction. From the harbour you can walk there, take a bus or take a taxi. The latter is strongly recommended at night.
Salvador da Bahia is a city for people watchers. Women dressed in the traditional Bahian dress selling aracajé – a typical deep fried snack of beans and shrimp – generally don't mind being photographed. Capoeira players (see photo below), by contrast, sometimes demand a fee.
The city's colonial churches certainly are a highlight. Igreja e Convento da São Francisco is Brazil's most opulent church, where guided tours are available. If you like to learn more about the history of Bahia and Bahian dress, visit the little known but informative museum next to the Memorial das Baianas (along Rua da Misericórdia).
Another recommendation is to rent a car and drive along the coast of Bahia de los Santos. Stop at the forts, admire the views, drink fresh coconut water and eat moqueca at one of the seafood restaurants along the shore.
2. Have fun in Rio de Janeiro – beaches, Santa Teresa and Escadaria Selarón
Rio de Janeiro is arguably Brazil's most popular city among tourists. Like Salvador da Bahia, it is a popular stop for cruises. It is a city to take in the main sights for one or two days, or to linger and lose yourself in the beach scene of Copacabana and the throbbing nightlife. Of all Rio de Janeiro's tourist highlights, I would personally recommend the following:
- Take the bonde (tram) from Centro up to Santa Teresa. The station is at Rua Lélio Gama 65; the bonde leaves every 30 minutes. Stroll Santa Teresa's cobbled streets, admire the mansions that reflect the upper class that lived here in the 19th century, and enjoy the bohemian ambience that has been more prominent for the last 40 years or so.
- The Lapa neighbourhood is home to the cone-shaped Metropolitana Cathedral at Avenue República do Chile 245. It is a worth a visit for its enormous stained-glass windows.
- Within walking distance from the cathedral is the Escadaria Selarón. This ongoing project of tiling stairs and the adjacent walls (photo see below) is an initiative of Jorge Selarón in an attempt to colour the city – in which he has definitely succeeded. You will find the Escadaria Selarón between Rua Joaquim Silva and Rua Pinto Martins.
3. Tourist attractions in Brasília – modern architecture and landscape architecture
In-country, the capital still suffers under an outdated image of being bland. True, it doesn't have a lively downtown area since the city is divided into quarters, which each have their own shopping centre, schools, medical health post and so on. It isn't a city for people watching or strolling the markets. But there are other things on offer, especially for architecture buffs.
Brasília is a city of modern architecture and landscape architecture. Even if you are unfamiliar with either one, I suggest visiting the city. You may like what you see (see photo below). The vast Eixe Monumental is the main artery of the city. On each side are splendid examples of Oscar Niemeyer's architecture and Burle Marx’s landscapes. Both are 20th century architects who have greatly impacted Brazilian and even international architecture through their daring and unique designs.
Of particular note are:
- Praça dos Três Poderes that houses Brazil's centre of government.
- Cathedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida along the Eixe Monumental.
- The conch-shaped platform of O Quartel General do Exército, as well as its landscape garden.
There are buses throughout the city. Another option is to rent a car at the airport. Hotels are conveniently located in two sectors along the Eixe Monumental: SHN and SHS.
When you're done sightseeing, visit the artificial lake of Lago do Paranoá. Here you'll find a monument dedicated to the Italian priest Don Giovanni Bosco. He supposedly had a vision in which he saw a new city ("Brasília in the southern hemisphere, which would be of great importance in Brazil’s and South America's history"). The lake is a great place to simply relax for the day or go for a walk.
4. Sightseeing in Belo Horizonte – Oscar Niemeyer's architecture
Of all five cities, Belo Horizonte is probably the least-known. But this city also has tourist attractions. Belo Horizonte is a planned city, like Brasília, but does have a downtown area and a laid-back atmosphere. Enjoy the outdoor cafés or admire Oscar Niemeyer’s architecture around Praça da Liberdade and Praça da Savassi.
The best-known architecture of Oscar Niemeyer and Burle Marx in Belo Horizonte is found in Pampulha, the neighbourhood north of downtown. Even when you are not interested in churches, check out the quaint Igreja de São Francisco de Assis. With its unusual curved shape and paintings by Portinari it is different from what you have most likely seen anywhere else (see photo below). The nearby Museu de Arte de Pampulha is less intriguing in its design, but check out if an interesting exposition is being held.
5. Visit São Paulo – soccer, art and food
Due to its staggering number of inhabitants, 17 million, the city has a prominent place on the agenda of the 2014 World Cup Soccer that will be held in Brazil. To prepare yourself for this spectacle and to understand a bit of the Brazilian madness with regard to soccer, visit the recently opened Soccer Museum. It is situated in the stadium of Pacaembu at Praça Charles Miller and is within walking distance from subway station "Metrô Clinicas" at Avenida Dr. Arnaldo; it can also be reached by taxi and bus.
Lovers of art and nightlife have good reason to visit São Paulo. Among the city's famous features are the Biennial São Paulo art event at Parque do Ibirapuera and Latin America's most comprehensive western art museum of MASP at Avenue Paulista 1578.
At night São Paulo changes from a thriving business hub into a playground of hedonism. Going out for dinner is a favourite pastime of Paulistas, and they go no earlier than at nine. You will find cuisines from all over the world, but of particularly note are sushi (outside Japan the largest Japanese community lives in Brazil, mainly in São Paulo) and pizza at Casa Brás, the latter has won several awards for its quality food.
Flying to Brazil's 5 largest cities: the Brazilian Air Pass
All above-mentioned travel destinations can be reached by plane. From all these airports are daily national flights as well as frequent international flights. Check out the Brazilian Air Pass, a product of the Brazilian air carriers TAM and Varig. The most common air pass format has coupons for four destinations; more can be bought additionally. The pass is valid from 3 to 21 days. Note that the air pass is always linked to the purchase of an international ticket.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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