The Franciscans are members of a Catholic religious order founded by St Francis of Assisi in the early 13th century, and have become known for their work in foreign missions and their focus on education. Franciscan friars accompanied expeditions of the Spanish colonizers and thus arrived in Paraguay where they founded several reducciones.
Reducciones are a well-known form of colonization in South America: an Indian settlement under ecclesiastical or royal authority where the Indians would be converted, taught and protected. In return the Indians had to be available for labour.
Baroque and Rococo-style Churches in Paraguay
A concentration of the Franciscan heritage of churches can be found around Asunción, Paraguay’s capital, with a great many of Franciscan churches on and around Ruta 2. Although some of them have been torn down and rebuilt in the last century, ancient carved wooden altars, altarpieces, pulpits and confessionals have been preserved and remain as magnificent pieces of art.
The carving was done by the Guaraní Indians who used local plants to make the dyes. Constructed in Baroque or Rococo styles, the wooden structures are elaborately decorated in colors as well as in adornments. Where the old church structure still stands, check out the fine carved doors, shutters and beams.
If the churches are closed, walk to the adjacent parish house or ask for the caretaker. There is always someone willing to open the door for a visitor.
Franciscan Church Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria in Capiata
At Km 20 at Ruta 20 lies the town of Capiata. The 18th century church is surrounded by schools and a soup kitchen run by the Catholic Church, and the area around the church has been turned into a playground for the schoolchildren. Most impressive in the church are the polychrome pulpit and altarpiece, the latter featuring La Virgin Candelaria, and San Miguel defeating the devil.
Franciscan Church San Lorenzo de Altos
North of Ruta 20, 60 kilometres from Asunción and near San Bernardino, lies Altos, a town which was founded in 1580 by the Franciscan Friar Luis Baloños and Friar Alonso. Friar Luis Baloños became the founder of more reducciones in the area, among which Atyra and Tobatí.
The church was largely renovated in 1989 but lacked funding for the restoration of the dark, soberly colored altar and altarpiece, where the harmful effects of termites are clearly visible.
The altars and altarpieces date from the 17th century and display the Virgin of Asunción, Altos' patron saint, and several other saints. Notable are the alcoves along the altar, which is not found in other Franciscan churches. Look underneath the altar cloth to admire the fine carved altar table. Two of the ancient church benches still remain and stand along the altar.
Franciscan Church San Francisco in Atyra
The picturesque town of Atyra is situated eleven kilometres east of Altos. Behind the church lies the scenic old town, with cobblestoned streets, and small houses in shady courtyards where animals and people take refuge from the summer heat.
The church is new [renovated] but the 18th century wood carvings of the altar, the enormous altarpiece and the two side altarpieces are a sight for sore eyes. Painted in a bluish and reddish background, the gilded flowers and grapes stand out. The colors of the pulpit and confessional have almost faded away.
Franciscan Church Inmaculada Concepción Tobatí
Seven kilometres eastward lies Tobati, Paraguay's "City of Ceramics". In the surrounding areas a great many ceramic factories are to be found where bricks, roof tiles and pottery are manufactured.
The quintessential 18th century church lies in the middle of a green park and is plain in its structure. The exterior is new, in 1940 the old church had to make way for a larger one. The interior is similar to Atyra, with its main altarpiece and two side altarpieces. As in Atyra, they are lavishly decorated with paintings of grapevines – clearly both churches lie in an area of vineyards.
Underneath the dove, symbolizing the Holy Spirit, the altarpiece depicts a large number of statues, among which la Virgen Inmaculada Concepción de Tobatí – to whom the church is dedicated. Two of the original church benches have been preserved as well. In the back of the church, in the sacristy, several 18th century statues are kept which are used during processions.
More Cultural Highlights in Paraguay
- There are Franciscan churches in Yaguarón, Valenzuela and Emboscada
- Cultural and historic museums in Asunción
Accommodation and Other Tourist Attractions in Paraguay
The stylish, historical Hotel del Lago in San Bernardino offers comfortable accommodation and is a good base from where to explore the churches. Here is an overview with tourist attractions in Paraguay.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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