Paraguay's first colonial settlements were established during the early 16th century. Well-known are the Jesuits, who inhabited the southern part of Paraguay until they were expelled in 1767. Less known are the Franciscan orders which settled around Asunción, the capital of Paraguay. Their heritage is visible in whitewashed churches with richly painted interiors – especially the wooden altars, altarpieces, pulpits and confessionals are truly masterpieces of art.
Franciscan Reducción of Yaguarón
Forty-eight kilometres southeast of Asunción along Ruta 1 lies Yaguarón, once a tiny village of aboriginal Guaraní Indians. In 1586 the Franciscan order created a reducción – a town of converted Indians.
In time the Franciscans handed over the reducción to secular authorities and Yaguarón grew into the town it is today. Many of the ancient houses have been demolished but El Templo San Buenaventura [constructed 1755-1772] stood the test of time and still functions as a church today.
Franciscan Church El Templo San Buenaventura in Yaguarón
The exterior of El templo San Buenaventura, named after one of the founding fathers of the Franciscan mission, is impressive in its plainness: whitewashed adobe walls lined with colonnades, which are supported by pillars of Lapacho wood. The modest exterior stands in striking contrast to the elaborately decorated interior, overwhelming with the frilly ornaments typical of Baroque and Rococo, and with a beautifully painted cassette ceiling.
Two elements stand out: the confessionals and the altarpiece. Ornamented confessionals are scarce in South American churches – in general they are plain in structure and never painted. All the more fascinating are these creations of art, abundantly embellished with carvings and paintings of flowers.
The handcarved altarpiece stands out for its size: a fourteen metres high, six metres wide and three metres deep, wooden masterpiece – in the centre steps lead up to heaven where St. Peter is waiting with the key in his hand. Also note the beautifully carved chairs alongside the altar with the armrests carved into animal heads.
Another interesting part is the sacristy, on request the caretaker will unlock the door. It features a large, beautiful wall unit where previously the wardrobes of the priests were kept. Unfortunately, it is subject to mildew and other forms of decay and can no longer be used.
Franciscan Church of San José in Valenzuela
Fifteen kilometres south of Ruta 2, about 80 kilometres east of Asunción, lies the friendly village of Valenzuela. It is smaller in size than Yaguarón but more picturesque in character, and time seems to have come to a standstill. Men sit in front of their houses, watching the day go by while enjoying their tereré – a sweet, iced infusion made of herbs.
In the main square stands the plain church of San José, their patron saint, with the altar – or more specifically, the altarpiece – as its outstanding feature. The profusion of stunningly beautiful carving is a sight for sore eyes. The polychrome altarpiece features patron saint San José, an angel killing the devil and a dove symbolizing the Holy Spirit.
Franciscan Church San Agustín de Emboscada
Along Ruta 3, 39 kms east of Asunción, lies Emboscada, a village with a Franciscan church dating from 1774. It stands out from the previous churches for its fine carved doors, shutters and beams as well as the soft colors used to decorate the wooden altars in flowery designs. The church is damaged by vibrations caused by heavy trucks passing by and the congregation hopes to restore the church soon with the help of an Italian program.
The church is dedicated to San Augustine, who features as one of the statues in the altarpiece, as do the Virgin of Asuncion, St. Peter and St. Paul, and the angel San Miguel. The pulpit is particularly impressive, it's supported by the statue of a young man and is decorated with paintings of six historic figures and the heads of angels.
Opening Hours of the Franciscan Churches Around Asunción
The Emboscada church holds masses regularly: Wednesday evening, Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. In Valenzuela and Yaguarón mass is only held on Sunday morning.
If the church is closed, ask around for the caretaker or the parish house, there is always someone willing to open the door for a visitor.
More Cultural Highlights in Paraguay
- Along Ruta 2 more impressive Franciscan churches can be found, in the vicinity of the beautifully located Hotel del Lago in San Bernardino.
- South of Paraguay lie the Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesús – both form part of the UNESCO World Heritage.
- Asunción is worth a visit for, among others, its cultural and historic museums.
Still in doubt as to why Paraguay deserves a visit? Read seven good reasons to visit Paraguay.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
Join the Conversation