The Shandur pass lies between Gilgit and Chitral, the two main towns in northern areas of Pakistan: a remote, scenic region of lofty mountain ranges, fertile valleys and crystal clear rivers. For the greater part of the year, it is covered with snow and completely desolate apart from a few grazing yaks.
Polo Festival at Shandur Pass
For the yearly three-day festival in July, makeshift tents pop up and turn into a complete bazaar where everything can be bought – from toothpicks and underwear to duvets and sleeping bags. Entrepreneurs construct tent-hotels and tent-restaurants where nights can be spend or take a meal at a bargain.
Between the thousands of locals, the few foreigners stand out. Pakistani are known for their hospitality, and when walking through the bazaar foreigners will be greeted and welcomed and invited for cups of tea. When evening falls, temperatures drop and large bonfires are lit where people dance and make music deep into the night.?
Polo Rules at Shandur Pass
Tough polo rules Polo is the oldest of the equestrian sports and the Pakistani claim it originated here, in the northern areas. The English word "polo" means "ball" in the local language. In northern Pakistan the game has developed in a manner different from elsewhere in the world, the main contrast being that it is much tougher. For example, contrary to polo games elsewhere, no changing of horses is allowed. There simply are no rules, except that the players have to stay in the saddle, and referees are only needed to allow or disallow a goal. The game is won when a team scores nine goals.
Pakistan is a destination those who like to go off the beaten track. Not only the country – and especially its people – will never cease to amaze the visitor, this yearly, traditional polo tournament is something few foreigners have seen.
Public Transportation and Accommodation at Shandur Pass
- To get from the capital of Islamabad to the Northern Areas, take one of the two flights per day to Gilgit [weather permitting] or the daily bus [12-18 hours].
- From Gilgit to Shandur there is local transport, e.g. a bus, or team up with other travellers to rent a jeep with driver. Madina Guesthouse is a popular guesthouses among foreign travellers and a good place to team up.
- Tents and other camping gear can be rented in Gilgit. Or stay at one of the tent-hotels on the site at Shandur?
Dress Code in Pakistan
- Be aware of the fact that, to Western standards, Pakistan is a conservative country. Wear loose-fitting, covering clothes, avoiding bare legs, bare shoulders and low neckline. Some foreign women feel more comfortable wearing a headscarf, although this is by no means compulsory. Also, men should realize that Pakistani men in rural areas don't wear shorts or bermudas. It is very cheap to buy local clothes [men’s and women’s] and it will gain you much respect with the locals.
- Although in the summer it can be very hot during the day, the nights can be chilly, so bring a sweater or buy a large wrap-around scarf, like the locals wear.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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