Lovers of modern architecture will enjoy a visit to Brasília, Brazil's capital in the hinterlands of Goiás, to admire the numerous works of the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. He is known as a designer of new architectural concepts, which greatly influenced Brazil's modern architecture. As he himself stated in an interview with the Metropolis Observed, "Go to Brasília—you may or may not enjoy my projects, but I dare you to find something similar."
Oscar Niemeyer’s vision of architectural projects in Brasília
Well, you have to agree with him on the above. You may like his architecture in Brasília or not, but it most certainly is distinct from any other architecture you will find in, as well outside, Brazil. Oscar Niemeyer describes his architectural designs for Brasília as follows:
"When planning the government buildings for Brasilia I decided they should be characterised by their own structures within the prescribed shapes. In this way, the smaller details of rationalist architecture would vanish in the face of the overpowering shapes of the new edifices. I tried to push the potential of concrete to its limits, especially at the load-bearing points which I wanted to be as delicate as possible so that it would seem as if the palaces barely touched the ground." [from: A Legend of Modernism]
Who is Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer
He was born in Rio de Janeiro [1907- ] and graduated from Escola Nacional de Belas Artes in 1934 [National School of Fine Arts]. From early on in his career, he worked with the urban planner Lúcio Costa on various projects, among which the design of Brasília. Roberto Burle Marx complemented many of Brasília's architectural designs with his modernistic landscape architecture.
For Brasília, as well as for other projects in and outside Brazil Oscar Niemeyer designed residential, commercial and government buildings. Also noteworthy are the sculptures he designed, such as O Pombal on Brasília's Praça de Três Poderes.
Architectural designs of government buildings in Brasília
All buildings on Praça de Três Poderes, at the far end of Brasília's Eixo Monumental, were designed by Oscar Niemeyer:
- O Congresso Nacional [Congress], O Palácio do Planalto [Presidential Office] and Supremo Tribunal Federal [Supreme Court].
- The museums Museo da Cidade and Museo Histórico.
- O Panteão de Pátria [1985], the dove-shaped design that commemorates the restoration of democracy after Brazil's military dictatorship in the sixties and seventies.
On either side of the Congressional building stand two masterpieces of architecture: O Palácio do Itamaraty and O Palácio da Justiça. The combination of the rough material [concrete] and the soft curves is typical of these buildings.
"It is not the right angle that attracts me, nor the straight line, hard and inflexible, created by man. What attracts me is the free and sensual curve — the curve that I find in the mountains of my country, in the sinuous course of its rivers, in the body of the beloved woman." ~ Oscar Niemeyer.
Whereas the Palácio do Planalto and the Supremo Tribunal Federal on Praça de Três Poderes appear to hang in a space of nothingness because of the emptiness that surrounds them, the two ministries seem to float in the ponds that are part of Roberto Burle Marx's landscape designs that fold around the buildings. Another feature of these government buildings are the spacious surfaces of glass, often from floor to ceiling over the entire width of the building.
Architectural designs by Oscar Niemeyer along Brasília's Eixo Monumental
West of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs [1965] and Ministry of Justice [1970] is the Esplanada dos Ministérios, a row of 16 identical en 2 different high-rise offices that house all ministries.
At the far end on the west side of the Eixo Monumental lies one more government building that is worth a visit for its architectural design: O Quartel General do Exército, the Ministry of Defense [1968]. The Ministry itself is a huge, square construction that doesn't stand out in any particular way other than for its size and the open parade ground that spreads in front of it.
What is worth to take note of is the raised platform shaped like a conch, which has surprising acoustics [A Concha Acústica, 1969]. Even a whisper results in a strong echo when you are standing in the right place. Together with the Obelisk in front of the platform, the Concha Acústica represents the Sword Guard of Caxias – the Brazilian Army's Patron.
Modern architecture of non-government buildings in Brasília
Apart from government offices Oscar Niemeyer was responsible for numerous other architectural designs in Brasília, such as:
- A Universidade de Brasília [1960]
- Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida [1970], which stands at some distance from the government buildings on Praça de Três Poderes, as if accentuating the division between worldly and spiritual powers. This unusual architectural design stands out for its 16 curved columns and stained-glass windows. The statues of the four evangelists at the entrance and the aluminium angels inside were all sculpted by Ceschiatti.
- Next to the Catedral are two new complexes, both opened in 2006: the white half dome that is the Museo de la República, and the adjacent oblong Biblioteca Nacional. A National Library in such an imposing building raises expectations about its contents. However, the actual quantity of books is depressingly disappointing – for example, the library has no books on Oscar Niemeyer! According to the staff the University Library is much better equipped.
- O Teatro Nacional [1979].
- Memorial Juscelino Kubitchek [1980], in honour of the Brazilian president who initiated the construction of Brasília.
How to visit Oscar Niemeyer's contemporary architecture in Brasília
All hotels of Brasília are conveniently located in two sectors [blocks], called SHN and SHS. From here there are different options to visit the sights:
- Take a bus Praça de Três Poderes, where most of Oscar Niemeyer's projects are on walking distance from each other. The bus stop is on Eixo Monumental, along the Hotel Sectors.
- Rent a car [in Portuguese: aluguer de automóveis, or alugar um carro]. Don't forget to drive around the sights at night, when the buildings are beautifully lit.
- Arrange a guided tour with a travel agency.
The receptionist at your hotel most likely can arrange the car rental as well as a guided tour for you. If not, check out the nearby CAT Tourist Information Office across the Eixo Rodoviário Sul [opposite of the Hotel Sectors]. the CAT has various maps of Brasília and information on Brasília's hotels, car rentals and travel agencies and tourist attractions.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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