The northern tip of Chile, the Tarapacá Region, offers a marvellous setting for off-road travel. The Pan American Highway crosses the region from north to south with several tarmac roads dissecting the Atacama Desert, the Pampa del Tamarugo and Chile's Altiplano. But what better way to experience the overpowering landscapes and to meet Aymara Indians in their ancient villages than by leaving the beaten track. Rent a 4WD or all terrain vehicle and off-road the tracks through National Park Volcan Isluga.
Preparations for an Off-road Trip Iquique – Colchane – NP Volcano Isluga – Iquique
This trip roughly covers 680 kilometres, of which 50 percent is asphalted and 50 percent is off-road. Most importantly: bring enough fuel – there are no petrol stations along the way.
Bring camping equipment or rent a car in which it is possible to sleep. Colchane is the only place along the way that offers accommodation.
Stock up on water and food because the villages along the way may not have any supplies. Whereas some travellers have no problem drinking water from the tap, or from the springs found on the altiplano, others may prefer to buy bottled water or to bring a water filter.
Four-wheel-drive or Two-wheel-drive Vehicle?
Large parts of this trip are no problem driving with a regular two-wheel-drive vehicle. The tarmac stretches are excellent and even parts of the tracks in the National Park Volcano Isluga are doable with a regular vehicle. However, parts of the Quebrada de Aroma and National Park Volcan Isluga demand a high-clearance, 4WD vehicle.
Moreover, one never knows what the weather may do, or has done. Especially during the summer months [Dec-March] rain in the altiplano may cause enormous flooding which may be disastrous for roads and tracks. Especially during these months check with the traffic police [carabineros] or CONAF headquarters about road conditions.
Rent a car in Iquique [or bring a private vehicle]. Iquique has many car rental agencies offering a wide range of cars, vans and pick-ups. Check this article on specifics on renting a car in Chile. Ask the rental company if they have a detailed map of the region. Other options may be to buy one at a petrol station or bookstore, or to visit the Tourist Information [Sernatur] at Anibal Pinto 436 and ask for their regional brochures and maps.
Off-road Trip Along Geoglyphs and Petroglyphs in Atacama Desert
From the centre of Iquique the road quickly ascends into the dunes of the Atacama Desert. Fifty kilometres east are the ghost towns of Humberstone and Santa Laura. Both nitrate mines are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a visit is recommended. About thirty kilometres north of Humberstone lies Huara and a short detour of 14 kilometres eastward on Ruta A55 brings the traveller to Chile's largest anthropomorphic geoglyph: the "Giant of Atacama".
Return to Ruta 5 and drive north until the turn-off to the right, to "Curaña" or "Ariguilda". Here the off-road starts and one may want deflate the tyres a bit for more comfort. Ahead lies a flat area of the Atacama Desert, traverse it until a sign indicates "Ariguilda". The right turn leads into the Aroma Canyon – a fabulous landscape with a kaleidoscope of colours. A sign will indicate where one can find ancient petroglyphs.
Off-roading along Hot Geysers and National Park Volcano Isluga
The road meanders through the canyon, reaching an altitude of about 2500 metres, after which it passes through the ancient towns of Iyalla, Jaiña, Chiapa. From Chiapa the road leads to the newly constructed tarmac road A55 to Colchane. A recommended side trip along the way is to the Puchuldiza [4200 metres], to visit the hot geysers or to take a hot bath.
Colchane lies at 3711 metres and is the entrance to the beautiful National Park Volcano Isluga. Recommended are the ceremonial villages of Isluga and Caraguano [thermal bath]. The highest pass is at 4600 metres where one can pay one's respect to the Pachamama Shrine. From here the path meanders down through more marvellous scenery and a rough part along and through the river.
Round Trip Off-roading in North Chile
After leaving the park one reaches a valley in a canyon, called the Comuna de Camiña. Here several villages make a living from agriculture and sell their surplus in Iquique. After so much barren landscape the valley is incredibly green. Soon one is back on the tarmac and the trip to Iquique is like flying – so smooth and straight is the road.
Off-roaders in South America may be interested in:
- Cruising the Altiplano in Argentina
- Off-roading around Iruya, northwest Argentina
- Off-roading at Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
Join the Conversation