The snow-white Basilica of Copacabana, along Lake Titicaca in Bolivia, is the backdrop to a weekly ritual: La Benedicion de Movilidades. During this "Blessing of Vehicles" vehicles gather in front of the home of the Virgin de Candelaria, decked out in a spectacular display of flowers and plastic knick-knacks. Priests bless the vehicle for a safe journey home while champagne is poured and fireworks go off. It is a unique spectacle that no traveller to Bolivia should miss.
How Copacabana Became a Place of Pilgrimage in Bolivia
According to the most popular story, Francisco Tito Yupanqui, a direct descendant of the Inca emperor, had a vision of Maria above Lake Titicaca in 1580. He decided to sculpture a statue of the Virgin in her honour; however, the end product showed such crude workmanship that it was rejected and removed.
Francisco Tito Yupanqui didn't give up. He moved to Potosí to become a proper sculptor and in 1583 returned with a wooden Virgin Morena del Lago [The Dark Virgin of the Lake]. She was given pride of place on the altar in the Copacabana cathedral and has never left since – during processions a replica is carried around.
Soon after the Virgin of Candelaria was placed inside the cathedral miracles started to occur, among which many healings, and Copacabana turned into a place of pilgrimage. According to the story the Virgin saved the lives of some Brazilian sailors who had become lost during a storm on Lake Titicaca. To honour her the sailors subsequently named their home beach after her, hence Rio de Janeiro's Copacabana beach.
Vehicle Blessings at Copacabana – La Benedicion de Movilidades
On weekend mornings the cathedral of Copacabana is the stage to one of Bolivia's largest blessing rituals: the ch'alla of vehicles. A ch'alla is a ritual blessing, whether Inca, Aymará or Christian, which occurs on many occasions throughout the country – for example during la Fiesta de las Alasitas in La Paz.
Cars, trucks and buses are directed to their place by police officers so that the traffic around the square isn't blocked. Women sell a large variety of decorations, such as special flower arrangements that should be attached to the vehicle's radiator, bouquets of flowers to be tied to the mirrors, garlands to decorate the roof of the car and flower petals to sprinkle over the bonnet.
After the ticket is purchased for 10 bolivianos and the vehicle is festooned in the appropriate manner, one of the priests will bless the car. He sprinkles the vehicle with holy water while walking around it and mumbling prayers for a safe journey home. Champagne may be poured over the car [don't forget the spare tyre!] and fireworks may be set off to give the finishing touch.
When to Visit Copacabana for a Blessing of Vehicles Celebration
The blessing of vehicles in Copacabana is an occasion not to be missed by travellers to Bolivia. It is a merry happening that gives a good insight into the beliefs and superstitions of the locals. La Benedicion de Movilidades takes place each Saturday and Sunday, around ten and two o'clock.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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