One of Bolivia's traditional cultures is that of the Tarabuco, an ethnic group that lives east of Sucre, in the Chuquisaca Department of central Bolivia. Through the centuries Tarabuqueños have woven their own clothes in distinct weaving patterns. For the last 25 years they have learned to use their unique weaving techniques to generate a form of income as well, which has even led men to participate in the weaving business. What is so fascinating about these weaving designs?
Traditional Dress of Tarabuqueños in Central Bolivia
The Tarabuco dress has several features that make it stand out. Most conspicuous are the monteras, or morriones. These leather hats are patterned after the helmets worn by the Spanish colonisers. Tarabuco men are recognisable by their k'uychis, ponchos woven with rainbow-patterned stripes – the tones of these stripes indicate the place of origin of a poncho. Women traditionally wear an aqsu, two pieces of cloth, one of which is worn as a cloak and the other draped over the shoulder – its edges embellished with colourful weaving designs.
Characteristics of Tarabuco's Weaving Patterns
Typical of the beautiful Tarabuco weaving patterns are the clear band segmentation and symmetry, contrary to for example the Jalq'a textiles where elongated rectangles are less prominent. The light-coloured bands are filled in with a myriad of darker-coloured figures.
The weaving patterns of women are a representation of real life as well as symbolic figures, whereas men are more encouraged to weave according to personal imagination and male vision. Since the revival of their traditional weaving techniques in the 1990s many new patterns and colour schemes have been developed, leading to a much wider choice of fabrics than in the old days.
The representation of real life is expressed in, for example, farming scenes such as harvesting, sowing and farming animals, marriage rituals and the production of chicha [corn beer]. Another recurring pattern is that of religious celebrations, such as Pujllay [carnival], and Todos Santos [All Saints' Day].
Unique Weaving Techniques of Tarabuco
The design of women's looms dates from Pre-Columbian times and it allows for the typical design called pallay. In the Bolivian Andes men traditionally weave on pedal-looms which is a technique inherited from the Spanish. The latter, however, doesn't allow for the typical form of design of the Tarabucos and so from 1994 on male Tarabuqueños started working on recovering these ancient tapestry techniques from 2000 years ago as well. Their focus is on weaving modern designs inspired by Pre-Columbian examples.
Weaving is done with the wool of sheep and cotton dyed in bright colours creating beautiful patterns in colour gradations. An important difference between men's and women's weaving techniques is the fact that women choose the colours of the warp whereas men by changing the colours of the weft.
Where to Buy Tarabuco Textile Souvenirs in Bolivia
On Sunday locals sell their wares on the Tarabuco market, which is much visited by foreign and local travellers who come here on a daytrip from Sucre. Unfortunately, prices have gone up considerably, so another option is to visit weaving villages in the area, for example Candelaria, Ravelo or Potolo. Tarabuco's woven textiles are used to make clothing, blankets and bags – for example ch'uspas, bags especially made for coca leaves.
To learn more about Tarabuco weaving techniques and patterns, visit the extraordinary Museo Textil-Etnográfico de Arte Indígena in Sucre – arguably one of the best museums in Bolivia. An interesting feature is that local women sit on the balcony demonstrating their weaving techniques. The museum is situated on Calle San Alberto 413 and is open from Monday to Saturday, 8:30am-noon & 2:30-6pm. The entrance fee is 16 bolivianos [about 2 US dollars] and the museum has a shop where fabrics are sold.
Travellers to Sucre may also be interested in:
- Three good reasons to visit Sucre
- Meet shoeshine boys during a unique city tour in Sucre
- How to become a volunteer at a children's home in Sucre
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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