Bolivia is one of the world's producers of Arabica coffee. Whereas the Yungas, north of La Paz, is Bolivia's traditional and principal coffee growing region, the country's largest coffee exporter is situated in the department of Santa Cruz – in Buena Vista, to be exact. Hacienda El Cafetal offers tours to visit the coffee plantation and factory, as well as to sample several of its high-quality coffees.
How to arrange a coffee tour at Hacienda el Cafetal in Buena Vista
In the quaint colonial town of Buena Vista, around and near the central plaza, are several agencies that offer tours to the coffee plantation. Another option is to go directly to the beautiful Hacienda El Cafetal, five kilometres south of the plaza, and arrange the tour at the reception of Hotel El Cafetal, which is situated on the premises of the coffee plantation.
A tour costs 35 bolivianos per person [about 4 US dollars] and takes about an hour. Tours are given by production workers after it became clear that they were much more proficient in translating their passion for coffee to visitors than guides from outside who in general lack the affinity with the coffee industry. As the manager of the hacienda states with a smile, "Our guides are able to explain the aroma of the coffee."
Bolivia's coffee production at El Cafetal
The Arabica coffee plants grow in the shade of a non-native tree: the cerebo. However, this fast-growing tree doesn't fare too well here and there are ideas under development of replacing it with bamboo or other shady, native trees. The tour is a pleasant walk in the shade and leads across the Parque del Café – the plantation surrounded by jungle – and ends in the production area.
Part of the production area – La Planta de Beneficio – is outside. Here, new coffee plants are cultivated and coffee beans are washed and dried. Further processing is done in a large hall, where the guide will explain each step. For children there are excellent explanatory panels, on which each step of the process is explained by cartoons that humorously relate the life of a coffee bean.
The tour ends in the outdoor café of the Hacienda where different types of coffee can be tasted. Inside there is a small, well set up museum with explanatory panels about the making of coffee, the history of coffee, as well as graphics about coffee production. It is also possible to buy several kinds of Buena Vista coffee – organic as well non-organic.
The best time for a coffee tour at Hacienda El Cafetal is from April to June, during the harvest season. Don't forget to bring insect repellent, a hat and of course your camera.
Accommodation and activities at Buena Vista
An excursion to Hacienda el Cafetal entails a long but doable day trip from Santa Cruz to Buena Vista; the distance of 100 kilometres takes about two hours to cover and can be travelled by bus or private vehicle. There are several accommodations in Buena Vista, among which a cabin lodging on the coffee plantation itself – Hotel El Cafetal.
A visit to the coffee plantation may be combined with a visit to the adjacent Amboró National Park, a cheese factory or a community where honey is produced. Visit the tour operators around Buena Vista's plaza for more information. Santa Cruz is a good place from where to explore the Che Guevara Trail, which runs all the Chaco.
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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